India is best known as a ‘developing country,’ and many have cashed in on that title, making billions as our economy progresses. Funny how we’ve managed to grow financial empires, yet we’re still stuck debating the morality of someone’s wardrobe choices. When it comes to society and fashion, hypocrisy still reigns supreme. It’s the 21st century; despite that, we’ve mastered the fine art of judging others, but not the simple task of letting people wear what they want, without commentary.

Fashion is supposed to be subjective, a personal form of self-expression, right? Not so fast! In our country, if your ‘true self’ comes draped in six yards of silk, you’re a cultural icon—even if your blouse plunges lower, than a stock market crash. But the minute that same silhouette, dares to meet a pair of jeans? Boom. Suddenly, your character is under scrutiny, not just your wardrobe. Freelance fashion stylist, Diya Madan, 24, points out, "I've had clients request daring blouses, with intricate cut-outs, and deep necklines for weddings, yet those same women, shy away from wearing similarly bold, and stylish outfits in their daily lives, due to fear of judgment.”

The root of this issue lies in the tangled theory of generational mindsets. Millennials (debatable) and GenZ embrace trends with open arms, but the disapproving glances from GenX (read: the nosy aunties) when you wear even the most innocuous dress, are a different sight to behold. The National Family Health Survey (NFHS-5), titled ‘India Report’,conducted in 2023, by various contributors, reveals that only 42% of married women feel free to choose their clothing, outside the home. This figure varies widely by state, with urban areas like Maharashtra, and Kerala displaying more progressive attitudes, compared to conservative regions like Bihar, and Rajasthan. This data underscores the paradox of accepting certain fashion choices, while rejecting others, revealing how societal norms impact women's daily lives. It’s ironic how we conveniently ignore the boldness, that has always been a part of traditional attire. Just glance at ancient temple carvings, or classical art— women are often portrayed in attire, that’s more revealing, than what we see today. Even the revered saree, often hailed for its modesty, can be draped in ways, that accentuate every curve. So, one has to ask, where exactly did this newfound moral outrage come from? Did we misplace it somewhere between history, and hypocrisy?

Bollywood has been an excellent accelerant for this fire. Take the typical character contrast: the "virtuous" woman is always dressed in a salwar suit—no matter how tightly fitted—complete with spectacles, and a neat bun. But if you want to showcase a woman who’s bold, confident, and speaks her mind, everything society ‘claims’ to value—she’s always sporting a cutout top, cargo pants, wavy hair, and, naturally, chewing gum. Let’s unpack this absurdity. If she’s really confident, she can pull off an ethnic look, just as effortlessly. And being cultured doesn’t suddenly disqualify her from wearing cargos, and a top. Yet, Bollywood has somehow convinced us, that any woman dressed like this, is automatically a brat. Warning: steer clear of such people! These clichés only make things worse. And let’s face it, we Indians can be so gullible, that we believe every WhatsApp forward, that lands in our inbox. Uorfi Javed, our favourite fashion rebel. Whether you love her, or loathe her, one thing’s for sure—she’s made a career out of keeping us all on our toes, with her wardrobe choices. Known for her bold, experimental, and often risqué western outfits, Javed is practically a walking headline. Every time she steps out in a daring top, or dress, she’s declared the ‘shock of the nation.’ But here’s the kicker— the moment she swaps her forward-going attire, for a saree or lehenga, complete with the same level of exposure—the narrative does a complete 180. Her Instagram account is a masterclass in this phenomenon. While her looks are criticized for being ‘too revealing’, or ‘un-Indian,’ her ethnic ensembles, featuring low-cut blouses, or backless cholis, earn comments like ‘stunning’ and ‘desi diva.’ It’s the same skin on display, but the public reaction? It’s like we’ve all collectively decided, that a little tradition can make anything acceptable.

But sometimes, even actors hold such contrasting opinions, when it comes to adopting a touch of the West. For instance, during an episode of What Women Want, a series hosted by Kareena Kapoor Khan, in 2023, guest Ranbir Kapoor, a renowned actor, didn’t mince words, saying, Javed has ‘bad taste’ in dressing. In contrast, Ranveer Singh, on Koffee with Karan Season 7, praised Javed for her courage, and called her a fashion icon. It’s clear everyone is entitled to their opinion, but it’s important to differentiate between constructive criticism, and derogatory comments. If more people took a page from Singh’s book, and focused on support, rather than shaming—or even from Kapoor’s rulebook, knowing when to stop—we’d have a much healthier dialogue about fashion. Gazing, and commenting from men is sadly something women have grown all too accustomed to, and it looks like we’ll have to keep enduring it, especially since, the women belonging to an older generation, seem to have no intention of stepping in, and are often heard saying things like—‘Don’t you think her top is too revealing? Doesn’t her family say anything?’ followed by, ‘These kinds of clothes aren’t meant for our society.’ Which society are we talking about, here? We all contribute to the making of a community, and in an age where women are already juggling a barrage of nonsense from men, it’s crucial that we stand together. Yet, it’s disheartening to see, progress is moving in reverse.

Jia Chawla, a fashion student, said, “There’s this invisible line we’re all expected to walk. You can be modern, but not too modern. You can be bold, but only if it fits within certain cultural boundaries. It’s exhausting.” These are the unspoken, unwritten rules of the fashion playbook, crafted by, and for the women of India. “Modern blouses look great with sarees. They’re a fresh twist on tradition,” says 56-year-old Preeti Deshmukh, a homemaker based in Delhi. “But full western outfits, especially revealing ones, feel unfamiliar. I know it’s a double standard, but sadly, most people would agree with it too,” she further added. When asked the same question, Shalu Sethi, a 30-year-old entrepreneur, stated, “It’s all in the eye of the beholder. You could cover yourself entirely, and people might still find a way to judge you.

Modernization isn’t harmful, but one shouldn’t forget their roots along the way.” While society clings to its outdated ideas, GenZ is busy rolling their eyes, and shaking things up. For them, clothing is all about self-expression, comfort, and empowerment—cultural guardians be damned. They’re smashing the walls between ‘ethnic’, and western,’ mixing, and matching with reckless abandon. Corsets with sarees, anyone? The only way to dismantle this deeply ingrained mindset is through conversation, and a healthy dose of resistance. Fashion will continue to evolve, and with it, societal perceptions will shift, but change won’t happen, without confronting these biases head-on. Relatively recent cohort are already challenging what’s considered acceptable, confidently rocking crop tops, ripped jeans, and other styles labeled too “outgoing.” Yet, the underlying judgment persists, and it’s up to us to call out this hypocrisy, whenever it rears its ugly head.

By Janvi Gujral

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